[Photos: Energetic leaps off of "David's diving board"...WellSpring Board Members enjoying the cool waters of our diving pool...the intriguing caves of Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found]
DAY NINE: THE CAVES OF DAVID, THE DEAD SEA SCROLLS AND OUR FIRST VIEW OF JERUSALEM
Having found the Arabic version of Starbucks next to our Dead Sea hotel, our last morning there was filled with enthusiasm (and caffeine) as we sipped our now familiar "coffees with milk"—the Israeli version of a latte. Yes, they even had soy! We then gathered to enjoy morning devotions led by Patti.
Our group departed at 8:30 a.m. with all our luggage (as well as our growing souvenir stash complete with water from the Jordan River, mud and salt from the Dead Sea) and headed for Ein Gedi, the local cave where the conflict between David and Saul in the Old Testament took place. This spot, with gushing streams, waterfalls, large sandstone rocks balancing on smaller rocks beneath, and impressive natural caves, was an unexpected highlight for our WellSpring pilgrims.
At Ein Gedi, once again we baffled our guide, Andre, as we responded to the growing heat of the day with an impressive carpe diem action—in full clothes some of us unabashedly and quite spontaneously leaped into a large pond at the base of a waterfall! Within minutes about half of the group was following suit and we delighted in jumping from a rock outpost we soon named "David's diving board". We leaped feet first into a five-foot pool of clear (and slightly mossy) water for the next half hour. Happily we walked the rest of the trail to the official David's waterfall site and then back to the bus with soaking wet pants and our shoes singing our own psalms to the noise of "squish, squash, squish, squash." To top off our time at Ein Gedi, we indulged in an 11 a.m. ice cream stop (which is becoming part of our daily route!) and loaded the bus with our damp but delighted pilgrims.
Our next stop was Qumran, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found in cliffs high above the coastline of the Dead Sea. At this remarkable site, where they have planted palm trees and glowing red African flame trees which contrast beautifully with the impressive dessert cliffs that loomed above us, we learned about the 1947 discovery of 716 scrolls (a portion of which are on tour in San Francisco right now at the Legion of Honor!)
The group of Essenes Jews that lived here since ancient times isolated themselves from the surrounding culture and believed that by their intense dedication to living pure lives, they would expedite the coming of the messiah. Essenes focused their lives on prayer, cultivating agriculture and copying the Scriptures. About three years of dedicated practice was necessary to prepare to join such a group. Then in 1947, a year before the establishment of Israel as a nation, the Dead Sea Scrolls were found here in a cave and the world over has celebrated the validation that these scrolls lend to the authenticity of the Old Testament. Many of these fragments of scrolls that were found (numbering in the thousands) date back to time of Jesus. Before this discovery, the oldest scrolls found were from the 9th Century A.D.
With our clothes now dry from our earlier waterfall escapade, our pilgrims boarded the bus for our triumphal drive into Jerusalem. Our first panoramic views of the city will never be forgotten. We passed Bethany and the Samaritan Road, en route to emerging from a large tunnel to take in the glimmer of the golden roof at the Dome of the Rock, the spectacular Mt. Olives and the expansive city wall around the Old City.
Our first stop was in Bethlehem we passed through heavily guarded checkpoints to enter the birthplace of Jesus. Sadly, what a contrast to the peace of Christ. Today's conflict was weighing heavy on our hearts and minds. Graffiti and graphic murals depicting the current Israeli/Palestinian conflict surrounded us—in particular, a 20-foot tall white dove painted on the side of a building wearing a bullet-proof vest with shotgun crosshairs zeroed in on its chest (see blog photo).
We shopped in Bethlehem to support the Palestinian Christians living there as a minority group in the midst of such daily conflict. We then visited the Shepherd's Field and the Church of the Nativity where it is believed that baby Jesus was actually born. After passing again through the important checkpoint between Bethlehem and Jerusalem, our group arrived at our home for the next week—the Regency Hotel—overlooking the lights and daily life of Jerusalem, specifically the fortified Old City. It is much cooler here than in the desert, about 65-70 degrees during the day. The cool night's breeze drew us out of our rooms to sit on our porches and enjoy watching nearby fireworks explode victoriously over the "Holy City."
DAY EIGHT WALKING MASADA AND A MEMORABLE JEEP RIDE IN THE WILDERNESS OF ZIN
Hebraic culture met Hollywood today as we began our day by touring the famous site of Masada, a hilltop fortress built by Herod the Great which was made famous by a Hollywood film called "Masada" in the 1980s. This sandstone exclamation mark exemplifying Herod's incredible building prowess has been visited and inhabited over the centuries by Jewish zealots, relentless Roman soldiers, adventurous monastics, curious archaeologists, dutiful pilgrims, and eager tourists AND most recently by President Bush last week during his trip to Israel.
History abounds on this hilltop where 1st Century Jews revolted against the Romans in 68 A.D. Among the Jews at that time, many felt that if they were to initiate such a revolt and engage with the enemy then they could accelerate the return of their messiah because the Old Testament spoke of their God who would return to rule, and in essence, squash all of their oppressors. Instead, this revolt ended badly for the Jews, with the holy temple of Jerusalem being burned down by the Romans in 70 A.D. and here at Masada, ten Jewish protectorates of the city cast lots to decide in what order they would kill themselves, their families and the 1,000 residents of Masada, so that when the awaiting 8,000 Roman solders who were surrounding the fortress finally figured out a way to breach the fortress wall, there would be no victory for them in ransacking the city or taking residents as slaves. The Masada residents themselves burned all of their buildings except the storehouse, to prove to the Romans they had not died from a shortage of food and water. In fact, all were dead when the Romans broke through the fortified wall (except a few women and children) and there was a stack of bodies where the ten protectorates had fallen on one another in their final breath. We know of such history of Masada through the writings of Josephus Flavius, a respected Jewish writer from the time of Jesus.
From Masada we switched gears, literally, leaving our comfortable bus behind for a rugged jeep ride through the Judea and Negev deserts to arrive at the Wilderness of Zin. Our group quickly learned that the Israeli version of a deep and memorable chiropractic adjustment is simply to take a hot, dusty and quite bumpy jeep ride out into the Wilderness of Zin (known from the time of Moses as the location where the Israelites wandered for forty years before entering the Promise Land). Whereas the Israelites traversed this barren region by foot that extends for seemingly countless miles, we opted for the massive 4x4 covered jeep that could seat our entire pilgrimage group. Our fate around the hairpin turns and rock-studded hills was in the hands of Jacob, an Israeli who has spent his life in the desert here but his daughter lives in the San Fernando Valley of California. He felt an affinity for our group (largely from California) and this meant that he wanted to keep us out in the desert for at least six to seven hours as if giving us a driving tour of his hometown. After much negotiation, we managed to keep the Indian Jones-ish jeep ride to four hours in the 105+ degree heat. Our group applauded when we came around the bend to once again greet pavement under the all-terrain wheels of our massive jeep and when we saw our lil' purple bus and Ahmed waiting in the distance to drive us back to our oasis in the desert, the Le Meridien on the Dead Sea. Cool air conditioning greeted us as we stepped on board. Ahhh! Our desert day was delightful and it was topped off with spa treatments for those who adventured into the world of salt rubs and mud wraps, and the evening was complete with a self-declared "Ladies in the Lounge" Happy Hour while the men enjoyed an exclusive daily option of a "Men's Only" Spa from 7-8 pm. With sun-beaten skin, dusty shoes and well-worn smiles of our memorable visit to the Dead Sea, we prepare tonight to head to Jerusalem tomorrow. A much anticipated final destination on this WellSpring pilgrimage.
DAY SEVEN LEAVING GALILEE AND HEADING FOR THE LOWEST POINT ON EARTH, THE DEAD SEA
Today our group left the "comfort" of the Golden Tulip in Tiberias to begin our travels to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth. Patti challenged us on the bus to consider, "What it is to know that you may never be back to this place of such significance ever again? What is it that we take with us? What is difficult to leave behind?" Our group shared about the joys of blasting worship music while out on the water in the "Jesus boat," and of watching the sunrise over the Golan Heights as its pure light danced and dazzled towards us across the Sea of Galilee as it rose for its day's work. Others shared that perhaps this body of water or region in general was smaller than they had pictured it (this realization is similar to going to Disneyland as an adult and noticing everything seems much smaller when you're not 10 years old anymore). Our group reflections shared both highlights and disappointments, and Patti reminded us that this parallels the reality of Jesus living here as both fully human, but also fully God. He lived out his humanity as he was attempting to live out God's story amidst the pressures of every day life. Indeed, none of us are meant to live on a lifetime retreat, or mountain top experiences, but these times of renewal, refreshment and enhanced perspective offer hope, understanding and patience in the lower valleys of life where we often are expectantly waiting on God for life to unfold, for relationships to prosper, for sickness to be healed, for joy to be experienced, for us to become all that we were created to be. It's suggested that gifts that God gives us from this quality time spent in the region of Galilee may not hit us until we arrive home. All of this will undoubtedly influence where our minds go, what activities we engage with and what we continue to pursuing learning when this pilgrimage sinks in. In the meantime, Patti has encouraged us to hold these two overarching questions before ourselves each day, "What am I unexpectedly learning about myself? What am I unexpectedly learning about God?"
With such questions in mind, we move today from the fertile area of the Galilee to the desert life that formed the character of leaders such as Saul and David. We move from arid countryside to seemingly barren moonscape with the land looking very much like something we'd find in outer space—largely devoid of biological life and diversity—with the main emphasis on conservation, perseverance and downright survival.
Our first stop was at Beth-Shean where we viewed the Roman theater and impressive bath houses as well as heard about the demise of Israel's first king, Saul here at this site. From there, on our drive south to the Dead Sea we could see Jordan, 95% of which is desert. 75% of Jordanians are Palestinians and we had to pass through numerous checkpoints to enter into the ancient city of Jericho, which is now 85% Muslim. Herod the Great built his winter palace in Jericho, considered to be perhaps the oldest city in the world, and we stopped off the roadside to see the monastery built into the rock high above where it is said to be on the Mount of Temptation where Jesus was tempted by the devil while he was tested in the desert for 40 days and 40 nights. After a "fast food" lunch of delicious gyros of falafel or turkey, our group did some quick shopping before continuing onto our home for the next two nights, Le Meridien Hotel on the shores of the Dead Sea.
The afternoon was spent afloat in the very salty waters of the Dead Sea. I feel dehydration setting in just by typing the very fact that sea water averages 3% salinity, whereas for comparison, the Dead Sea boasts 28% salinity. It's in a league of its own so to speak, and interested therapeutic vacationers come from all around the world to be scrubbed with the mud and salt from the Dead Sea (again, just like Galilee, it is actually a large lake). However, in ancient times the Dead Sea was much larger and it continues to shrink and increase in salinity as it is fed by the Jordan River but has no outlets to pour into that have not been plugged with salinated soil. Similar to a badly clogged sink, the result is an ecosystem that is stagnant, evaporating and literally dying—hence its name, the Dead Sea.
Conversations around our buffet dinner tonight included stories from stepping on the salty crystals at the shoreline, to whipping down the pool's waterslide, to exchanging recommendations on which spa treatments seemed to usher in the promise of eternal youth. All in all the heat of today's desert sun (both inside and outside the bus since our air conditioner was broken all day) was long forgotten as each pilgrim's soul experienced an infusion of refreshment and adventurousness as we explored the hotel grounds, the shores of the Dead Sea and even the nearby McDonald's, should the temptation for a taste of home come knocking. And speaking of "home," even in this quite remote desert location, we discovered just up the road, another Golden Tulip! Say it isn't so!
[Photos: Evidence of almost 30 different civilizations built upon one another at the ancient site of Megido, or Armageddon...An example of how mosaics are made at Sepphoris, the city in the region of Galilee where Jesus may have worked as a carpenter.]
DAY SIX EXPERIENCING ARMAGEDDON AND AN AFTERNOON AT LEISURE
Our usual 8 am departure today took us to the most impressive fortified city built by King Ahab—an ancient city always at the crossroads, known as Megido. While the name may at first sound completely unfamiliar, it is also known in Scripture as Armageddon, the site of the final battle that is described in John's vision in the book of Revelation (see Rev. 16:12-16).
This ancient city that is approximately 7000 years old holds evidence of almost 30 layers of civilizations that were built upon this site. At the crossroads of the important Via Mares, the road most known for transporting supplies, livestock and people throughout this region since time began, runs north to south along the Mediterranean border of Israel. The ruler of Megido has always controlled the most important part of this trade route. King Solomon and King Ahab fought over Megido, the story of Deborah from the book of Judges took place here on the plains of the lush agricultural lands of the Jezreel Valley. From Megido, or Armageddon (meaning "mound of Megido"), we were able to see Mt. Tabor in the distance, and up close we were able to see the numerous stables that held 450 horses at the time of King David. The water supply of Megido was always outside the walls of the city, so there was an impressive underground tunnel dug out, chisel stroke by chisel stroke, to reach the nearby water source. We walked through this 30-meter long tunnel in the dark coolness of the carved rock, all the while being serenaded by a bullfrog hiding at the end of the tunnel in a small pond.
Our group joined a long and storied list of people to visit this impressive site with panoramic views and seemingly endless history—in 1964 Pope Paul VI and the President of Israel met here, in World War II this was the site of a major British vs. Turkish battle where the commanding British officer in his victory here won the title "Lord of Armageddon." In 1948 the Arab forces were defeated here and a kibbutz of Holocaust survivors moved in to begin life anew until it was soon thereafter obtained by the Israeli National Parks system, which maintains it still today.
We continued onto the town of Sepphoris, now ancient ruins on the outskirts of Nazareth. Sepphoris is known for its impressive mosaics that date back to the time of Jesus. It is said that perhaps this is where Jesus walked from Nazareth to help with carpentry needs in this bustling town during its heyday.
After Megido and Sepphoris, our group of pilgrims enjoyed an afternoon at leisure in Tiberias. Many of us enjoyed eating at a restaurant over the water that is known throughout the region of Galilee as the best kosher restaurant in the northern part of Israel. Our table enjoyed fresh salmon, chicken, lamb, beef, duck, Mediterranean salads, onion rings, sweet potatoes and wild mushrooms. A highlight of the meal was the "Decks" Restaurant specialty—a crepe prepared at our table with brown sugar and cinnamon, filled with fresh berries and topped with seemingly creamy vanilla ice cream. We were in awe that this entire dessert had no dairy in it and yet its scrumptious flavor kept us coming back for more until the entire plate had been practically licked clean.
Other WellSpring pilgrims walked the coastal promenade alongside local artisan shops and visited various internet cafes. A local coffee shop was discovered that specialized in homemade Israeli pastries of filo dough stuffed with cheese, others with potato and quite a few variations with chocolate fillings. The freshness of these treats along with the political commentary the bakery owner and his buddies offered us about the upcoming American election—really given without any solicitation by us—was so memorable, that we returned the following morning as well to stimulate the local economy with our dollars and shekels buying up the best lattes made in Tiberias.
This afternoon at leisure allowed each traveler to welcome all of the rich experiences of the last few days that we have enjoyed upon and around the Sea of Galilee to move from being momentary activities, to truly being internalized as important personal moments that will inform our thoughts, actions and perceptions of our life and of God even once we have arrived back home.
[Photos: WellSpring pilgrim, Julie Warren, at the site of Caesarea Philippi...tour leader, Bill, reminding us of what is internationally known: Old Guys Rule!]
DAY FIVE TRAVELS TO TEL DAN THEN ONTO CAESAREA PHILLIPI AND THE SYRIAN BORDER. BAPTISMS IN THE JORDAN RIVER.
At this point in the journey, it seems appropriate to mention that the group is really melding together as a family on a road trip, having shared personal and sacred memories together in such a significant place on the planet, of 2000 years ago and still today. Each of us acknowledges that this is the kind of trip where you can assure yourself and those around you that you will be unable to return home the same. Our world views, our perspectives on Scripture and biblical history as well as our personal encounters with our own perceptions, self-image, and understanding of God are being informed anew with each step we take in the footsteps of Jesus.
As we get to know one another through conversations and experiences together on the bus, at meals, at each site we visit, we recognize that it is day five and our guide Andre is still trying to figure us out. He is often founding staring in bafflement at us and our comments, all the while his Australian-looking leather bush hat brim shaking left to right above his tanned, warm and friendly face rarely devoid of a smile. He likes to get our attention by saying, "Come America" or in the morning, he'll greet us by loudly speaking into the bus's microphone, "Good morning America!" If Andre really needs to get us moving, particularly if we make a bee-line dash towards a gift shop when shopping is not on the agenda, he will loudly say, "Please Uncle Sam come, come!"
Today "America" is off to see the ancient site of Tel Dan in the northern region of the Holy Land. During biblical times, Dan was a majestic place. A gushing river runs through its thick tree canopy providing shade on a day when temperatures are already in the high 80s by 9 am. The site is now a national park and here lies fine ruins from several eras of civilizations. Just inside the 9th century B.C. city gate there is the foundation of a throne, where the king of the city pronounced judgment. At Tel Dan there is also the structure of a cultic site where King Jeroboam set up a golden calf to rival the temple in Jerusalem. From here we enjoyed our first view of the magnificent Mt. Hermon—Israel's highest mountain at 9,230 ft. also shares land with Syria. This is where the transfiguration of Jesus is believed to have been taken place. (see Mark 9:2-13)
Our second stop took us to Caesarea Phillipi, known today as Banias (there is no connection here to the book of Philippians in the New Testament). Herod the Great ruled this city in the 1st Century A.D. and his son Philip inherited it after his death. Here we saw pagan temples dedicated to Pan, Nimrod, Nemesis and others.
Lunch consisted of pita sandwiches filled to the brim with fresh lamb and French fries…yes, each held a complete run through the Burger King drive through sans the milk shake. We also tried a local specialty consisting of a crepe filled with sour cheese/yogurt and an olive oil spread heavy with the spice, thyme. Then it was time for dessert—homemade baklava!
Next our bus stopped at a hilltop lookout to see neighboring Syrian land and a United Nations checkpoint compound on the Israeli side of the border. Here a local kibbutz sold fresh jellies and liqueurs made from local cherries, avocados, eggplant and melon.
We then continued on to the Jordan River where John the Baptist baptized Jesus (Matthew 3:13-17). On the way to the river our bus's air conditioner broke (for the first time!) and temperatures rose in the bus cabin. In response, our bus driver, Ahmed, opened his window to help get some breeze circulating. A few minutes later he got stung by a bee. Thankfully he was not allergic and he was able to remove the stinger as soon as we arrived at our destination spot along the Jordan.
This afternoon adventure to the river's edge was not only a highlight of this trip for most, but better yet, a lifetime highlight for those who chose to be baptized here by Patti and Bill Pierce in the clear green waters that were teaming with huge catfish rising to the surface just twenty feet from our baptismal site. I'm afraid that such a deeply spiritual and personal experience is one that you must personally ask whomever you know on this trip more about when you see them upon arrival home—blogging could never do justice for such a baptismal experience.
Our group then returned in the late afternoon to our hotel in Tiberias, the only town on the Sea of Galilee which has become a natural center of the region with a population of 40,000. Foder's is a bit harsh on this quaint coastal town, stating "Tiberias has little beauty and less class, and although almost 2,000 years old, it still has the atmosphere of a community yet to come." Our group is in agreement that this description fits oh so well specifically for our Tiberias hotel, the Golden Tulip. Yes, that's really the name. Translated in the local dialect, it means "no hairdryers, room keys that easily de-magnetize, temperamental air conditioners and perhaps a possibility of jack hammering next door at any hour." Did I mention that their in-house lobby bar show consists of human marionettes (a cross between the Muppet Show and Riverdance) on Friday nights along with Israeli karaoke on Saturdays…and the hotel's hospitality motto is "customer service, it's all about love"? Enough said.
On this evening in Tiberias, there is a local festival honoring the great sage, the rabbi Moses Maimonides (1135-1204). Moses was known in the Jewish world as the greatest religious scholar and spiritual authority of the Middle Ages. Moses never lived in Tiberias but after his death in Egypt, his remains were brought to this holy Jewish city for internment, where his tomb has become a shrine. This day music and school children holding Israeli flags, flapping wildly in the strong afternoon wind, walk the streets and the local community circled the promenade around our hotel oblivious to the tourists in their midst. As the parade festivities filled the streets, a large brush fire started up on a nearby hillside and many of us wondered if this was done in significance for the first Moses—a type of modern-day "burning bush." The hotel staff informed us that the parade was well-planned for, whereas the large brush fire was not.
Our group of 22 departs SFO at o-dark hundred on May 14th (4:30 am is our check-in time…gulp). We’ll be traveling through
Our itinerary is available at:
http://www.wellspringca.org/pdf/WellSpring05-08.pdf
